石榴籽·同心圓 | 維吾爾族：這樣的“艾德萊斯”誰不愛
在新疆維吾爾自治區成立70週年的時光坐標上，
一縷承載著千年文明的絲綢愈發閃耀。
指尖輕觸，是流雲拂過般的柔軟；
目光所及，是艷麗繁花般的圖紋，
薄如蟬翼卻富於彈性。
這不僅是維吾爾族服飾瑰寶，
更是新疆大地上的文化圖騰——艾德萊斯綢。
它在經緯交織間記錄著各民族交融共生的溫情歲月。
和田、喀什地區是新疆主要蠶桑區，當地豐富的蠶桑資源為艾德萊斯綢的生産提供了充足的原材料保障。
Hotan and Kashgar prefectures are major sericulture areas in Xinjiang, where abundant mulberry resources provide a solid raw material supply for the production of Atlas silk.
“艾德萊斯”意為“扎經染色”，最大的特點是在織造前就已設計好圖案，先染線，後織布。
“Atlas” refers to “tie-dyeing,” characterized primarily by designing the pattern before weaving. The threads are dyed first, then woven into fabric.
它的誕生本就刻著“交融”基因。
Its origin inherently embodies a gene of “integration.”
千年前，中原養蠶繅絲技術傳入西域，與當地織染技藝結合，經煮沸抽絲、捆紮染色等工序，最終成為獨特織物。
Over one thousand years ago, sericulture and silk reeling techniques from the Central Plains were introduced to the Western Regions, where they were combined with local weaving and dyeing methods. Through processes such as boiling and reeling silk, as well as tying and dyeing, a distinctive fabric was developed.
工藝上，西域玉米皮防染與中原“界尺”定位結合，通過捆綁經紗中不需要染色的部分（用玉米皮、薄膜等紮緊），讓染色劑無法滲透，形成花紋；西域草木染（槐樹花、石榴花、核桃皮）與中原媒染法（加入明礬或綠礬）結合，讓色彩更醇厚。
Technologically, the Western Regions' technique of resisting dyeing using corn husks was integrated with the Central Plains' marking methodwith the ungraduated ruler. By binding portions of the warp yarns that did not require dyeing-- using materials like corn husks or thin films-- the dye was prevented from penetrating, creating patterned designs.
The Western Regions' use of plant-based dyes from sophora flowers, pomegranate blossoms, and walnut peels was combined with the Chinese mordant dyeing technique, which involves adding alum or ferrous sulfate, resulting in richer colors.
紋樣上，羊角、花卉、蘋果、石榴、巴旦木、熱瓦甫琴、手鼓等元素，也都生動體現了生活在這片土地上的各民族的多元風采。
The patterns, featuring motifs such as ram's horns, flowers, apples, pomegranates, almonds, rawap, and hand drums, vividly reflect the diverse cultural heritage of the various ethnic groups inhabiting the region.
這縷來自新疆維吾爾族的傳統絲綢，正以新姿態走進大眾視野。如今，“艾德萊斯”早已超越布料範疇，“艾德萊斯+”出現在了秀場上、文創産品上，走進千家萬戶，也成為連接各民族共同發展的紐帶。各民族的交融，正如艾德萊斯綢上的經緯交織，各守本色，又共繪新圖景。
The traditional silk from the Xinjiang Uygur community is reemerging in the public eye with a renewed appeal. Today, Atlas has long surpassed its role as a fabric. The Atlas elements have appeared on fashion runways and cultural creative products, reaching households nationwide and serving as a link promoting shared development among ethnic groups. The integration of various ethnic groups mirrors the warp and weft woven into Atlas silk-- each maintaining its distinct identity while collectively creating a new pattern.
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