石榴籽·同心圓 | 滿族：一針一線承古韻
中國有四大名繡：蘇繡、蜀繡、粵繡、湘繡，不少民族也有自己的特色刺繡，其中，“滿族刺繡”你了解嗎？
China is home to four major embroidery styles: Suzhou embroidery, Sichuan embroidery, Cantonese embroidery, and Hunan embroidery. Many ethnic groups also have their own distinctive embroidery traditions. Among these is the embroidery of the Manchu people, which you may find interesting.
滿族人的祖先靠遊牧漁獵為生，滿繡最初是繡在粗布和皮革上的，是每家每戶給自己的打獵用具繡上的獨特“標記”。而戶外打獵，衣物特別容易破損，怎麼辦呢？聰明的滿族先民就用繡補的方式，增強衣服的耐用性。後來逐漸從實用修補演變為兼具藝術美感的裝飾，繡制出豐富的花紋圖案。到了清朝時，甚至用於繡制龍錦、鳳袍、官服……圖案堆疊立體、疏密有致、流光溢彩！
The ancestors of the Manchu people relied on nomadic herding, fishing and hunting for their livelihoods. Manchu embroidery was originally done on coarse fabric and leather, serving as unique marks sewn onto hunting tools by each household. With outdoor hunting leading to frequent wear and tear of clothing, the resourceful Manchu ancestors used embroidery as mending to enhance the durability of their garments. Over time, this practical repair method evolved into an artistic decoration, producing intricate patterns and designs. By the Qing Dynasty, Manchu embroidery was even used for official ornate garments such as dragon-pattern robes, phoenix-pattern gowns, and official attire, featuring layered and textured patterns that shimmered with a vibrant array of colors.
但更具特色的其實是滿族的民間刺繡。它們常常出現在衣帽、肚兜、虎頭鞋、荷包等日常用品之上，還與婚俗緊密相連——姑娘出嫁前會精心繡制“枕頭頂兒”作為嫁粧。和這個民族的性格一樣，滿族刺繡古樸天真、粗獷豪放，圖案活潑可愛，以抽象誇張的手法使得個性特徵更加突出。
The most distinctive form is actually the folk embroidery of the Manchu people. It often appears on everyday items such as hats, aprons, tiger-head shoes, and pouches, and is closely linked to marriage customs -- young women meticulously embroider pillow tops as part of their dowry before marriage. Reflecting the character of this ethnic group, Manchu embroidery is simple, naive, bold, and expressive, featuring lively patterns that emphasize individuality through abstract and exaggerated designs.
滿族刺繡也深受中國各地區和各民族刺繡的影響。在色彩運用上，既保留滿族對紅、綠、黃等亮色的偏愛，又與蘇繡中展現顏色漸變的“退暈法”調和，將熱烈奔放與典雅細膩融為一體；圖案紋樣中也同樣有很多圍繞“福祿壽喜財”的“諧音梗”，傳遞人們對美好生活的嚮往。
Manchu embroidery has also been influenced by the embroidery traditions of various regions and ethnic groups in China. Its use of color reflects a Manchu preference for bright hues such as red, green, and yellow, while also incorporating the “shading technique” from Suzhou embroidery, which features gradual color transitions. This fusion unites vibrant expressiveness with elegant refinement. Additionally, many of the patterns include homophones centered around themes of “fortune, prosperity, longevity, joy, and wealth,” conveying a universal aspiration for a better life.
如今，以滿繡製作的旗袍、頸枕、手包、胸針，新一代傳承人正帶著這份珍貴技藝，讓這門古老藝術在新時代煥發更耀眼的光彩。
Today, Manchu embroidery has made its way onto Chinese traditional Qipao dress, neck pillows, exquisite handbags, and brooches. A new generation of inheritors are bringing this precious craftsmanship to life and allowing this ancient art to shine even brighter in the new era.
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